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Florence Pugh, from Midsommar to Oppenheimer: softness and strength in fragrance

Cinema & fragranceWomen's fragrance5 min read

A Swedish meadow crushed by sunlight, a painting studio in Paris, a Soviet airstrip, the too-blue sky over Los Alamos. Revealed by “Lady Macbeth” in 2016, Florence Pugh has become, in just a few years, the actress of softness and strength of character — so much so that fashion house Max Mara made her the face of its very first fragrance this summer. Let's be clear from the start: the houses gathered here do not have her as an ambassador — it is her cinematic world that has freely inspired this selection by Olara perfumery, between Serge Lutens' Fleurs d'Oranger and Frédéric Malle's Portrait of a Lady.

1“Midsommar”: the May Queen

In 2019, American director Ari Aster delivered “Midsommar”, the most luminous horror film of the decade. Florence Pugh plays Dani, a student devastated by grief who follows her boyfriend to a commune in Hälsingland, Sweden, where the summer sun never sets. White dresses, flower-laden tables, a May Queen crown that literally buries her in blossoms: in Aster's world, floral softness becomes vertigo. That is precisely the paradox of Fleurs d'Oranger, the great white floral of the Serge Lutens collection: a solar, creamy flower pushed to the point of dizziness — more on it below.

2“Little Women”: Amy, ambition with a paintbrush

That same year, Greta Gerwig adapted Louisa May Alcott in “Little Women”. Florence Pugh plays Amy March, the painter of the family, opposite Saoirse Ronan's Jo: long dismissed as the spoiled youngest sister, Amy becomes, in Gerwig's hands, a young woman lucid about what the world grants — or denies — the women of her time. The role earned Pugh an Academy Award nomination for Best Supporting Actress. Parisian studios, taffeta, restraint and panache: that classic elegance has an olfactory equivalent, Iris Poudre from the Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle collection. Signed in 2000 by Pierre Bourdon — the nose also behind Davidoff's Cool Water — this powdery aldehydic floral built on iris and musks is poise in a bottle.

3“Black Widow”: Yelena, the sister-in-arms

In 2021, Florence Pugh entered the Marvel universe with Cate Shortland's “Black Widow”: she plays Yelena Belova, sister-in-arms of Natasha Romanoff (Scarlett Johansson), a hyper-trained assassin with bone-dry humour and fierce loyalty — by near-universal consensus, the character steals the film. For that kind of energy, an ordinary rose won't do: you need Serge Lutens' La Fille de Berlin, a rose mounted on pepper and chilli, thorny and determined — a flower that hits back. It also comes as a travel spray, to keep up with the missions.

4“Oppenheimer”: Jean Tatlock, the dark rose

In 2023, Christopher Nolan gave her one of the darkest roles in “Oppenheimer”: Jean Tatlock, a brilliant, tormented psychiatrist, the young love of the father of the atomic bomb. Only a handful of scenes, shot in charcoal black and white, and an immense imprint on the whole film. That tragic intensity calls for a fragrance to match: Portrait of a Lady (2010), the Turkish rose masterfully overdosed on patchouli, incense and sandalwood — the masterpiece of Dominique Ropion, Master Perfumer at IFF, to whom Olara perfumery devoted a full portrait. For its fifteenth anniversary, the bottle even gets a dressed-up limited edition.

5Fleurs d'Oranger: sunshine according to Christopher Sheldrake

If one fragrance had to sum up this world — softness that never rules out strength — it would be Fleurs d'Oranger (1995), one of the cult creations of Serge Lutens' Collection noire. Its signature: Christopher Sheldrake, the house's historic perfumer, Serge Lutens' accomplice ever since the revolutionary Féminité du bois of 1992. Here, orange blossom is treated in majesty: surrounded by jasmine, tuberose and white rose, it radiates like high summer — then cumin and musks slide a skin-like warmth underneath, turning the bridal bouquet into a fragrance of character. Solar and carnal at once: Dani in the middle of the meadow.

White flowers in close-up — orange blossom in majesty, the top note of Serge Lutens' Fleurs d'Oranger, by Olara perfumery
Top
Orange blossom
Rose in full bloom, close-up — the jasmine, tuberose and white rose heart of Serge Lutens' Fleurs d'Oranger, by Olara perfumery
Heart
Jasmine · Tuberose · White rose
Warm smoke curling in half-light — the cumin and musk base of Serge Lutens' Fleurs d'Oranger, by Olara perfumery
Base
Cumin · Musks
✦

Did you know?

The bitter orange tree, source of orange blossom, is the most generous tree in perfumery: its flower yields both orange blossom absolute (by extraction) and neroli (by distillation), its leaves give petitgrain, and the peel of its fruit gives bitter orange essence. Four raw materials from a single tree — and four very different facets.

White florals are also the great register of ceremonies: if you are looking for a wedding-day trail, our wedding fragrance guide gives them pride of place, alongside our women's fragrances.

6From meadow to boudoir: the Olara selection

Around these two anchors, the selection unfolds. Portrait of a Lady can be lived as a full line: hair mist, hand cream, cleansing base and the limited-edition Les Essentiels set — enough to wear Ropion's rose from morning to night. At Serge Lutens, Féminité du bois, the cedar-and-plum woody co-signed in 1992 by Christopher Sheldrake and Pierre Bourdon, remains the house's founding stone — softness and strength, already. And on the Frédéric Malle side, the 2026 novelty Northern Love by Bruno Jovanovic, to which we devoted an article, extends the house's winter of love. Find it all among our women's eaux de parfum.

Your questions, answered

Is Florence Pugh the face of a fragrance?

Yes: since summer 2026, Florence Pugh has been the face of fashion house Max Mara's very first fragrance. The houses featured in this article — Serge Lutens and Frédéric Malle — do not, however, have her as an ambassador: this selection is an editorial inspiration by Olara perfumery, freely built around her film roles.

Which films does Florence Pugh star in?

She plays Dani in Ari Aster's “Midsommar”, Amy March in Greta Gerwig's “Little Women” — a role that earned her an Academy Award nomination for Best Supporting Actress —, Yelena Belova in Cate Shortland's “Black Widow” and Jean Tatlock in Christopher Nolan's “Oppenheimer”. She was revealed in 2016 by “Lady Macbeth”.

What does Serge Lutens' Fleurs d'Oranger smell like?

Orange blossom treated in majesty, surrounded by jasmine, tuberose and white rose, over a base of cumin and musks that gives it a very singular skin-like warmth. A solar, carnal white floral created in 1995 by Christopher Sheldrake, unisex in spirit.

Who created Frédéric Malle's Portrait of a Lady?

Dominique Ropion, Master Perfumer at IFF, in 2010: an overdosed Turkish rose carried by raspberry, patchouli, incense and sandalwood. It is one of the most celebrated fragrances of the 21st century — Olara perfumery devoted a full portrait to him on this blog.

What is the difference between neroli and orange blossom?

Both come from the same flower, that of the bitter orange tree. Steam-distilled, it gives neroli, fresh and sparkling; extracted with solvents, it gives orange blossom absolute, more opulent and honeyed — the one that dominates in Serge Lutens' Fleurs d'Oranger.