Why does your favourite fragrance exist as an eau de toilette AND an eau de parfum? What does an “extract” really promise? Behind these labels lies a precise ladder, from lightest to most intense: eau de cologne, eau de toilette, eau de parfum, parfum, extract. We climb it step by step — with a niche bottle to illustrate every rung.
1Concentration: the word that changes everything
A fragrance is essentially a blend of two things: a concentrate of perfume materials (natural essences and synthetic molecules) and the alcohol that carries and diffuses it. “Concentration” is simply the share of the former in the latter — and it determines intensity, longevity and even the way you apply your scent. As a guide: roughly 2–6% for an eau de cologne, 5–15% for an eau de toilette, 15–20% for an eau de parfum, and above 20% for a parfum or extract. Every house doses its own way — these ranges are not regulated — but the ladder itself never changes. You will find it on every product page of our fragrances.
2The 5-step intensity ladder, rung by rung
Eau de cologne, the lightest, is a gesture of freshness: citrus and aromatics, sprayed generously — in the spirit of Atkinsons' 24 Old Bond Street Triple Extract, the venerable English house's “concentrated” cologne. Eau de toilette steps it up: present enough to sign a whole day, discreet enough never to weigh — like Bigarade Concentrée by Frédéric Malle, a minimalist, refined bitter orange. Eau de parfum, today's modern standard, brings roundness and depth: it is the format of Portrait of a Lady by Frédéric Malle, Dominique Ropion's masterful oriental rose and a bestseller of our niche shelves. Parfum — sitting just below the extract — darkens and densifies the story further, like Mystic Moonlight by Atkinsons, in Parfum intense. And at the very top, the extract, perfumery's most concentrated form, is applied in small touches: Oud Supermassive by Les Eaux Primordiales is a masterful example, from our niche fragrances.
Did you know?
Eau de cologne owes its name to the city of Cologne, Germany, where the Italian perfumer Giovanni Maria Farina settled in the early 18th century. His citrus and orange-blossom “admirable water” conquered the courts of Europe — and gave its name to an entire category. Three centuries later, we still say “a cologne”.
3Longevity and sillage: what changes on skin
The higher the concentration, the longer the fragrance lasts and the deeper its trail becomes — though not necessarily louder. An eau de cologne keeps you company for an hour or two, an eau de toilette for half a day, an eau de parfum for six to eight hours, and a parfum or extract can carry you through the entire day — orders of magnitude that vary with the composition, your skin and the season. An interesting paradox: very high concentrations, richer in materials and lower in alcohol, often project less far than an eau de parfum, yet remain present far longer, close to the skin. Intensity is not measured in the first fifteen minutes alone.
4Choosing the right one — and the right gesture
For everyday wear and warm weather, the lightness of a cologne or an eau de toilette is a safe ally; for evenings and the cold season, an eau de parfum or an extract naturally takes over. One caveat: from one concentration to the next, the formula itself often evolves. At Nina Ricci, Nina as an eau de toilette and Nina as an eau de parfum tell two interpretations of the same signature — not a simple dilution. Finally, adapt the gesture: a cologne is sprayed without counting, an eau de parfum lands on pulse points, an extract is dabbed in touches. Explore our unisex fragrances and the whole catalogue.
Your questions, answered
What is the difference between eau de toilette and eau de parfum?
The concentration of perfume materials: roughly 5–15% for an eau de toilette, 15–20% for an eau de parfum. In practice the eau de parfum lasts longer, develops the base notes further, and the formula is often reworked for the occasion.
Does an extract really last longer?
Yes — it is perfumery's most concentrated form, and a few touches are enough for the whole day. Its sillage often projects less far than an eau de parfum, but it stays present on the skin much longer.
Is eau de cologne outdated?
Quite the opposite: it is the oldest category of modern perfumery, and niche houses keep reinventing it with boosted concentrations — like Atkinsons' Triple Extract. Its generous freshness makes it the ideal gesture for summer and sport.
Does the same fragrance smell identical in EdT and EdP?
Rarely: perfumers generally rebalance the formula at each concentration. The eau de toilette favours the sparkle of the top notes, the eau de parfum deepens the heart and base. All the more reason to try both versions.
Which concentration should I choose as a gift?
The eau de parfum is the safe bet: intense enough to make an impression, versatile enough for every moment. For someone discovering fragrance, an eau de toilette is easier to tame; for a seasoned enthusiast, an extract makes an exceptional gift.
